Showing posts with label rock climbing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rock climbing. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 28, 2025

Climbing in Spain 1996

 

Local women near Artesa de Segre dressed for a medieval festival.
(Click images to view larger)

I recently bought a slide scanner (Plustek 8200i for anyone interested) and I’m digitizing old slides before they succumb to dust and time. I’ll post some of these from time to time as I work through the boxes that have been stacked in storage for decades.

 

In the fall of 1996, Ellen and I, not yet married, headed to Spain for two months to sport climb. In those days, trips were planned around hard-copy guidebooks and guesswork rather than the still nascent internet. Netscape, the main browser option, had gone public only the year before, and a Time Magazine article on “the best websites of ‘96” lauded the "innovative" Amazon.com where you could “search for books by title, subject, or author” (!!) according to an old Slate.com article. Thankfully, there were no “instagrammable” places on the world travel circuit. AOL was the go-to service for email, not that it mattered since we didn’t have cell phones, let alone smart phones while traveling, and we still sent hand-written post cards to friends and family. I shot slides on the trip with a new Nikon SLR that I was still learning to use, hoping my 35 mm slide film would survive the airport x-ray machines. I noted in my journal that on the plane I thumbed excitedly through Let’s Go Spain while sipping Bailey’s from a plastic cup, hoping to get some sleep. I probably even had a little leg room.

 

Unlike the internet, sport climbing was well-established in Spain in the 1990s, and we eagerly launched into our tour of Spanish climbing areas, working our way from the Pyrenees (Montgrony) in the north to El Chorro in the south before taking a ferry to Mallorca for an anticipated grand finale, only to be soaked there by pouring rain through which we walked wistfully above amazing limestone cliffs where deep water soloing (climbing without ropes above the sea) had already gained a following. Along the way, we visited Siurana, Montserrat, Villanova de Meia, Cuenca, and other crags, taking days off to rest only when our younger bodies insisted or when it rained, which was not infrequently. The rain, at least that autumn, did not fall mainly on the plain. 

 

It was on rest days that I engaged in photographing Spain--with mixed success. Other days I was too focused on climbing to even try to take good pictures. While “resting,” we wandered through villages, stopping to sip coffee in Spanish cafes, or we explored famous sites like the Alhambra in Granada, wishing that we had the means to stay at the pricey hotel there rather than in our tent outside of town. I snapped pictures of cathedrals, landscapes, and local people, stimulated by unfamiliarity. With film, you didn't really know how your pictures would turn out until you had them processed months later.


Street scene in Granada where we wandered around before visiting the Alhambra.


I kept a journal for part of the trip. A few excerpts give a taste of what travel was like for us then. We were much more spontaneous than we are now with no set itinerary, and while much of our time was spent climbing, most of my journal writing describes the days when we weren’t.

 

7 October 1996. Siurana.

 

We took showers last night in the climber’s “refugio,” a stone building literally built around a limestone boulder such that there is a significant bouldering traverse in the dining room. In our camp, a huge tent-load of Spaniards is camped semi-permanently, and they stay up late laughing with pure delight. It makes me smile just to listen to them, even though I can’t understand their jokes. 


Church on a clifftop at Siurana.


12 October. Artesa de Segre, Villanova de Meia, Lleida.

 

The grocery store, which was sort of like a combination of a Walmart and a Safeway, had an entire row of pig parts hanging from a rail. Apparently, they chop off the pig’s leg and a substantial part of the ham, dip the whole thing in wax to preserve it (though it didn’t smell that preserved), and then send it off to the supermercado. I saw one woman, presumably local, take a whiff of one of the pig legs and then wrinkle up her nose.

 

Locals taking a coca-cola break during a medieval fair near Artesa de Segre.


13 October. Villanova de Meia.

 

It is always somewhat strange to be trapped by rain on a trip when you are camping. We sat in the car for a while eating Lu cookies and surfing Spanish radio stations. Eventually when the rain let up, I went for a walk but got caught in a shower and hid out in a goat cave—full of goat shit. Ellen hung out in the tent and chopped veggies for dinner.

 

Ellen and our tent at Siurana.

17 October. Montserrat.

 

We washed our dinner dishes tonight and stretched while gazing out at the lights of Barcelona and the view towards the Med, enjoying the quiet that returns after the daily throng of tourists (mostly German) have left. The monastery is a peaceful and beautiful place. We climbed a couple of routes this afternoon on a rock called the “Vomitada,” named presumably for the stink coming from a pipe spewing raw sewage from the monastic complex above into the drainage below. Pretty foul. I guess even the most peaceful places have their effluent.


Montserrat spire with clouds in the valley below.

Ellen at Montserrat.

 

20 October. Montgrony.

 

We somehow became entangled in a big local climbers’ rendezvous here today and were included in the “historica” group photo on a hillside above the monastery, with much rushing around by the photographer and much saying of the Catalan equivalent (but not the direct translation) of “cheese.”


Local climbers gathered at Montgrony for a "historic" reunion.

Miguel, the "mayor of Montgrony," on one of the excellent tufa routes there (7a+).

27 October. Cuenca.

 

We climbed yesterday in the Sector Alfar [maybe -- can't quite read my handwriting] and got typically spanked. Although there is much steep rock here, we jumped on some recommended 7a (5.11d) routes that turned out to be hard, slabby, and quite sporty. One is regularly faced with crux moves on dicey thin edges with last bolt several feet below your quaking shoes and the next one a hard move or two out of reach. Miraculously, I avoided taking any huge falls…


A climber on one of the slabby routes at Cuenca. 

5 November. El Chorro.

 

The south of Spain is an almost continuous blanket of neatly spaced olive trees, but as we came down out of the mountains toward the coast, we began to see orchards of citrus trees—oranges, limes, and lemons. At one place a grower was pruning his fruit trees and tossing the branches down the hill to a herd of eager goats who set upon the branches with gusto, eating the green leaves which must seem luxurious in an otherwise dry landscape. 


The Camino del Rey (Walk of the Kings) near El Chorro as it appeared in 1996. This failing concrete and railroad rail traverse has since been repaired but still shows up in those annoying "10 Most Dangerous Hikes" articles. I traversed it wearing a climbing harness and clipping cables along the way, via ferrata style. 

After that entry, my journal inexplicably stops, and I can’t remember why. Ellen was suffering from a stomach malaise that we thought might be giardia, but we were still climbing hard most days, and we soon headed to Mallorca where we thankfully stayed in a cheap rented apartment while it rained fiercely for much of the time before we flew home. 

Ellen on a multi-pitch sport route on Mallorca during a break from the rain.

Trips for us today are less spontaneous and more expensive than they were in 1996, partly because we have the means not to camp in the rain, partly because we have the internet, and partly because it’s harder now to show up somewhere and expect to find a place to sleep. But something is lost when itineraries lock you into a schedule, preventing you from following your whims or the random recommendations of strangers, and the internet makes it a little too easy to know what you’ll find when you get there. Still, travel is exciting and invigorating. I usually take my best pictures when I’m in unfamiliar places. Mark Twain famously said, “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts.Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one’s lifetime” (from The Innocents Abroad: Roughing It, published in 1869). This is perhaps even truer today than it was in 1869, or 1996.

Ellen writing a postcard at El Chorro with the Road Atlas for Spain and the climbing guidebook on the table in front of her. 


Monday, May 15, 2023

Greece Part 1: Kalymnos

Jack, Ellen, and Dana at a ruin guarding a climbing area above Emporios.
(Click images to view larger)

The hills surrounding Emporios are infested with roosters. Jet lagged after a 30-hour travel day from Denver to Greece and the 9-hour time difference, I lay awake at 2 a.m., listening to them carry on. Across the harbor, a lone rooster crowed, far away and unobtrusive. Soon though, the rest joined in--all of them--including one just outside my window. After a few minutes, having established their territories, impressed their hens, or whatever the hell else they were trying to accomplish, they quieted down, only to crank it up again an hour or so later. As kids, we were taught that roosters crow at sunrise, but that's bullshit, at least in Emporios. 

A week passed quickly and jet lag was replaced by climbing fatigue, sleep came more easily, and crowing roosters became background noise, mingling with goat bells and the occasional car or truck passing on the road below. 

Emporios, where our friends Jack and Dana had rented a lovely stone cottage that they invited us to share, sits at the north end of the paved road traversing the island of Kalymnos from its largest town, Pothia, at its southern end. Along the way it passes through the climbing hub of Masouri, lined with restaurants and gear stores. Above the road, miles of limestone cliffs rise from the hillsides, drawing climbers from all over the world to thousands of bolted sport routes. Once known for sponge diving, Kalymnos and its economy were transformed in the last three decades by climbers renting rooms, eating at restaurants, drinking in bars, leasing scooters, and buying gear as the sponge economy waned and the larger Greek economy crashed and then recovered.

 

Kalymnos is one of many Greek islands in the Aegean Sea, itself closer to Turkey than Athens. Occupied for at least 6,000 years, the island is dotted with castles guarding high limestone outcrops and other defensive stone structures in the mouths of caves where the strongest climbers float up overhanging routes draped with tufas and dripping with stalactites. Themis, a taxi driver who drove us from the ferry terminal to Emporios when we arrived, told us (with an Australian accent—like many Kalymnians, she had lived overseas) that in the 7th Century, pirate raids were common, and women and children scrambled to the castles to escape the plundering. For us, the castles, along with blue and white Christian shrines and seaside hikes, were places to explore on climbing rest days, which were few since we were only on Kalymnos for two weeks.

 

It's been a long time since I’ve been on a climbing trip. Though Ellen and I still climb, it’s usually a day or two here or a few days there, so it was fun to climb ourselves to exhaustion and then sit on our patio eating bread and cheese and sipping Mythos beer. Although Kalymnos rock draws top climbers, one source I found suggested that 90% of the visitors are 40-50 years old and climb mostly routes graded 5a – 6b (5.8 – 5.10 more or less). We’re even older (!!) and that grade range suited us just fine. I’ll spare you the climbing butt shots, so below are a sample of images mostly from rest days on the island. 

 

I've also included a little logistical info after the photos, though the climbing guide and many web sources have it more than covered. 

 

After Kalymnos, Ellen and I spent a week on the mainland in Athens and Nafplio being tourists (and climbing for a day at another popular destination called Leonidio). I’ll post about that part of the trip separately.


Dragging our tired selves to the ferry after spending a short night on Kos trying to recover from a 30-hour travel "day."

Our patio above Emporios at the Stone Calliope. 

Mythos, our default lager while on Kalymnos. And you thought they were just climbing shoes.

Sponges in Emporios. There are still lots for sale on Kalymnos, but as an economic driver, sponge diving has given way to tourism.


Dana (left) and Ellen contemplating the menu in Emporios and wondering, "How many do they have, anyway? Eight?"

A cove on the Aegean Sea during a hike along the coast from Kantouni Beach to a church.

The small church at the end of a rest day hike from Kantouni Beach along the Aegean coast.

A light at the church. What could go wrong?

Cyan and white are the colors of the Greek flag and these same colors were mandated for buildings in 1967 by a military government that felt that they supported their political agenda. They have become the iconic colors of Greece.

I have to include one climbing shot. Jack boldly venturing into 5.11 at Sector Arhi, stemming on huge tufas.

And one of Ellen at the base of a crag meditating on the climbing guidebook.

Chairs in Emporios.

Ellen chatting with one of the many cats in Greece, this one in Emporios. They are in every restaurant, hoping for a tidbit, and though feral seem to be mostly well cared for by people and restaurants. There's an active program on the island to neuter cats to slow their population growth.

Goats amongst the ruins of a castle. Many houses on Kalymnos have outdoor goat ovens, but this doesn't seem to concern the goats too much. They wander over the hillsides, many with bells, and word is that at some of the popular crags they will eat their way into your climbing packs.

The Chora Castle also known as Pera Kastro which commands a limestone knob above Pothia. 

Poppies and castle walls at the Chora Castle.

There are 9 churches within the walls of the Chora Castle, each dedicated to a different saint and most built in the 15th to 16th centuries.

The churches everywhere in Greece are full of religious art.

On a more hedonistic note, the sausages were pretty damn good.

As were the tuna. This one had just been caught for the restaurant down the hill from our house in Emporios on the day we left, sad that we couldn't order any of it.

Emporios Inlet as viewed from our patio. It’s hard to see the roosters, but there are a lot of them out there. 

Ellen and Jack on the ferry headed back to Kos, with Pothia receding. 


Logistical Miscellanea


Getting there: Most people fly to Athens and then from Athens to the island of Kos (pronounced with long-o) that is just south of Kalymnos. The Kos airport is close to the port town of Mastichari (taxi ride) where you can catch a short (45-minute) ferry to Pothia on Kalymnos. We spent the night on Kos before the ferry to get some rest after the long flights. You can buy ferry tickets at the harbor (no need to buy in advance) for about 10 euros.

 

Kalymnos taxi: We took a taxi from Pothia to our rented cottage in Emporios (35 euros). Most climbers stay in Masouri which is closer. Our taxi driver (Themis) was great – you can text her at +30 694 9854148 if you need a ride. 

 

Kalymnos accommodation: We stayed at a cozy little stone house for 4 people in Emporios called the Stone Calliope (contact Maria at +30 697 1790881) Emporios is quiet and has some advantages over Masouri in terms of proximity to the northern climbing areas, but it lacks the amenities that most climbers enjoy in Masouri and isn’t very social if that’s important to you. Emporios has restaurants, a small store, and scooter/car rental (very informal – no international license required, unlike in Masouri), but no gasoline and limited food choices. There are lots of places to stay in Masouri and all up and down the island which can be found online. Masouri also has many scooter rentals and you can walk from there to some of the big crags.

 

Transportation: Most climbers rent scooters and some rent small cars. Our taxi driver suggested that it’s better to rent at least a 125 cc scooter, which we did in Emporios (15 euros/day) with no need for a motorcycle license, but we were told by friends that in Masouri you can’t rent more than a 50 cc scooter unless you have the motorcycle license on your international driver’s license. It was very nice to have the more powerful scooters for climbing some of the hills, and they are less obnoxiously noisy than the little 50 cc 2-stroke engines. The closest gas stations are south of Masouri in Elies, so that’s an issue if you are based in Emporios but not a huge deal.

 

Food: There are LOTS of restaurants and taverns all over the place. The best meal I had (seared tuna) was in an upscale place in Masouri called Prego, but we had very good inexpensive food at Street Food (also in Masouri) and plenty of good meals at many other restaurants. The restaurants close to where we stayed in Emporios were good and had fresh fish. The biggest supermarket is in Elies (just south of Masouri) and is called the AB Market. There are lots of mini-marts in Masouri that sell groceries, beer, and liquor. We never figured out how to make good coffee at “home”, but restaurant cappuccinos did the trick. 


Climbing Guidebook: We used the 2019 guidebook which describes 3400 routes. There is a new edition coming out this year (2023) but it wasn't available when we were there. The guidebook is excellent.