Wednesday, June 7, 2023

Attic Life

My dad and grandmother "Out West" probably in the late 1930s or very early 1940's. His family lived in Dearborn, Michigan but loved to visit the Tetons.
(click photos to view larger)

Last summer, while helping move my mother from the Chesapeake Bay to an assisted living community in Austin, Texas near my sister, my three siblings and I sat in my parents' sunroom sorting pictures and letters before the house was sold. It was painful to cull family photos, and there were thousands of them. Letters were even worse.


My sister, Kim, and me with my Grandfather, Oscar McCall, at his furniture store in Enterprise Alabama. 1960s.

Generations of photographs ended up in my parents’ attic, where it was too hot in the Virginia summer to work, so we hauled decaying bins downstairs and sat, each of us with boxes for keepers and garbage bags for tossers. At the end of summer, the house sold, we left Virginia with photos of ourselves and our kids. I became the keeper of the family archive because I had enough room in the back of my Subaru.


My great-uncle Henry Driese (3rd from left) was a railroad engineer for the Pere Marquette Railway in Michigan. He died long before I was born, but my grandfather (also Ken) worked for the railroad too, and my father (Ed) loved trains all of his life. This is one of many prints in a box that I brought back to Wyoming with me.

This summer, Ellen and I are tackling our own attic, sorting and tossing, preparing to move to New Mexico after over twenty years in our Laramie house. Like my parents, we’ve accumulated extended family histories and our own: photos of Bei growing up, letters from friends and family, journals, artwork, climbing magazines, books, diplomas, annotated calendars.


Ellen and Bei in Baja, California around 2003.

Me and Bei at the same spot.

In Sally Mann’s autobiography, “Hold Still,” she begins with boxes in her own attic, lamenting:

They had come to my attic in stages—first from Larry’s parents and grandparents and then from my father and mother—and they had not been opened since the deaths that necessitated boxing up a life. In them was all that remained in the world of these people, their entire lives crammed into boxes that would barely hold a twelve-pack.” 

-Sally Mann from Hold Still

Years ago, Ellen received a box in the mail from the nuns who had cared for her Uncle Bob in his later years. It’s been in our attic ever since, the last belongings of a man who lived a full life, married, worked for Boeing, but never had kids. By the time he died in his nineties, he had no other family, and Ellen had stayed in touch, so she became the keeper of his things and the carrier of that burden. 


A photo from Uncle Bob's box, carefully labeled on the back as the "interior view of C-97 mockup taken April 17, 1945." Back in those days, the entire cabin was first class! We've come so far.


Part of what we are saving for Bei are photographs and documents from before she was old enough to form lifelong memories—her early childhood, the year spent in China when she was five, her adoption. I’m certain that some of her “memories” come directly from these images rather than from actual experience. 

Photography would seem to preserve our past and make it invulnerable to the distortions of repeated memorial superimpositions, but I think that is a fallacy: photographs supplant and corrupt the past, all while creating their own memories. As I held my childhood pictures in my hands, in the tenderness of my “remembering,” I also knew that with each photograph I was forgetting. --Sally Mann from Hold Still

Our memories can be as much formed by photographs as captured by them, and photos are an interpretation by the photographer rather than perfect rendition of a moment. Discarding an old photo is like erasing a memory.

Bei with Naxi men in Baisha, Yunnan when we lived in China. She was probably 4 when this was taken and I'm sure she doesn't remember that day except as it is captured in this image.

Recently, I sorted a banker’s box densely packed with letters from old friends spanning my life from college well into the recent past. Despite being dirtbags in our 20s and 30s, we were prolific writers, before emails and texts replaced letters and post cards. In those days, I was immersed in rock climbing culture, and the letters capture adventures with friends in Yosemite, Indian Creek, Europe, Thailand, and a hundred other places. They also remind me of how bonded we were--sleeping on each other’s floors, lamenting failed romances, and reveling in our freedom before dispersing in our 40s. I recycled some of the letters and kept others. They'll mean little to Bei and I’ll be unlikely to read them again once they're back in boxes in whatever attic we own next. But throwing them away felt like excising part of my life.


An enthusiastic letter from Larry Scritchfield back when we were getting ready to attempt to climb The Zodiac on El Capitan (we got stormed off 5 pitches up). 

The late David Roberts, in his book about his audacious ascent of Mt. Huntington in Alaska as a young man in the 1960s, wrote:

A man’s best moments seem to go by before he notices them; and he spends a large part of his life reaching back for them, like a runner for a baton that will never come. In disappointment, he grows nostalgic; and nostalgia inevitably blurs the memory of the immediate thrill, which, simply because it had to be instantaneous, could not have lasted.” David Roberts from The Mountain of My Fear 

On El Capitan, Yosemite. 


There’s more to it for me than nostalgia, and I’m far from disappointed with the path I’ve taken, but fear of mortality gnaws a little as I look back at youth from my mid-60s. Milan Kundera wrote: 

To be mortal is the most basic human experience, and yet man has never been able to accept it, grasp it, and behave accordingly.” -from Immortality

"Behaving accordingly" might be exhausting, and maybe our photographs, letters, and other of life’s flotsam, carefully stored in our attics, is an effort to be just a little immortal, remembered for a while longer than we would be without that evidence that we were here. 

 

Jane Shilling, writing for The Daily Mail while decluttering uncertainly after her son left for college observed: 

When you write letters, either by email or on paper, you write, without knowing it, your life story, and one rarely emerges well from the account. But it is the human condition to be ridiculous and I may as well embrace it...Cupboard space is precious in a house as small as mine. But so are memories. And just at the moment, I can’t decide which I need more.” 

Cupboard space and memories are precious in our house too, so we’re taking the middle path with our things, recycling some and keeping others. Maybe if we leave our children just enough (if they choose to open the boxes) to learn about what we were like before we were their parents but not enough to overwhelm their attics, we’ve done the best we can.



 

Friday, June 2, 2023

Greece Part 2: Athens and Nafplio

The Parthenon dominating the Acropolis. 
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Before we left for Greece in April, I dutifully purchased Anthony Everitt’s, “The Rise of Athens,” and carried it with me into the Grand Canyon and on the San Juan River. Despite reviews touting its readability, I never made it past the first few chapters. Greek history isn’t as compelling when you’re deep in the U.S. desert southwest looking at petroglyphs. But even more daunting for me, the list of “characters,” mythical and historic, mentioned in the introduction alone included: Alexander the Great, Phillip, Achilles, Agamemnon, Hector, Odysseus, Homer, Chryseis, Apollo, Zeus, Hera, Athena, Paris, Aphrodite, Helen, King Menelaus, Briseis, Thetis, Aias, and many more, all interacting in complicated and magical ways while wandering through Athens, Sparta, Macedon, Phrygia, Troy, and Persia (another partial list), all places unfamiliar to me. And don’t even ask about the Ionic vs. Corinthian vs. Doric columns. 

So, with apologies to Greek historians, after two weeks of happy mindless climbing on Kalymnos, I stepped off the twin-engine Aegean Air prop plane in Athens with little knowledge of the city’s thousands of years of history, intent, along with the tourist throng, on visiting the Acropolis and the Peloponnese Peninsula, while secretly looking forward to a meal or two that was neither Greek nor Mediterranean. 

 

We stayed in a nice retro-themed apartment in the Kerameikos District of Athens (Kerameikos is the root of our word "ceramics") within walking distance of the Acropolis and set out the day after we arrived. The centerpiece is the Parthenon, the famous temple dedicated to Athena. It dominates the polished limestone fortress atop the famous hill even as modern Athens laps at it from all sides, a sea of white buildings fading into the distant smog. Despite the crowds, it’s breathtaking. 


Immediately surrounding the Acropolis are narrow streets lined with cafes, some serving cheeseburgers and fries. 

 

Although one could spend weeks exploring Athens, we knew better, having long ago probed our tolerance (low) for big cities, so we rented a car and drove two hours to Nafplio, a much smaller tourist town beside the Mediterranean, where the Peloponnese Peninsula meets the Greek mainland. Pre-trip research touted Nafplio as a convenient base for visits to ancient Corinth, the theater at Epidaurus, and the ruins of Mycenae, and it wasn’t lost on us that it is only two hours from Leonidio, another huge Greek sport climbing destination. An old castle looking down on Nafplio can be accessed from town by climbing 999 steps (I didn’t count), and Nafplio's narrow streets are packed with upscale shops, restaurants, and gelato stands. We spent four days in the area before returning to Athens to catch our flight back to Denver.

 

It's easy to understand why expats retire in Greece and climbers spend months there. The weather is mild, it’s relatively inexpensive, the food is good, and the people are genuinely friendly. Of course that’s a superficial view; Greece has seen more than its share of political and economic upheaval. But I can’t say that I was in a hurry to fly home after our short visit.

The pictures below are from our tourist week on the Greek mainland after Kalymnos, and I’ve included a little logistical info at the end.


A playground on Kos, where we spent a night after leaving Kalymnos before flying back to Athens. 

Ellen wading in the Aegean Sea on Kos.

Grafitti in Athens. In Kerameikos, where we stayed, every surface was covered, some more artfully than others. 

A metaphor for my knowledge of Greek history. This compelling relic is in the ancient cemetery of Kerameikos that we visited on our first evening in Athens.

"Acropolis" means a fort built on a hill, but The Acropolis in Athens is the most famous.

Ellen (left with black shorts) approaching the crowd at the entrance to the Acropolis. Even with the hordes, the site is inspiring. 

The Acropolis entrance with a small lobe of modern Athens in the background.

Cats are everywhere in Greece, and the Acropolis was no exception. 

Poppies near the Acropolis.

Just as we move our friend's heads around using modern photo editing software, the Greeks moved heads from one statue to another. 

Another head.

One of many streetside cafes below the Acropolis.

A boarded up window in Kerameikos perhaps speaks to the 10 years of economic crisis weathered by the Greeks. Many old buildings near where we stayed were abandoned and decrepit.

We stopped at ancient Corinth on the only rainy day we had in Greece and enjoyed the cloudy mood. Corinth is between Athens and Nafplio and has been occupied since 3,000 BC.

Flowers at Ancient Corinth.

Fallen columns (Corinthian??) at Corinth.

Nafplio viewed from the castle that looms above it. There's another castle visible in the harbor to the right of the peninsula. There's some climbing on the limestone on the left side of the peninsula, but it was too hot in the sun to climb there.

A citrus grove in a Nafplio courtyard. The town is surrounded by orange orchards and smelled of orange blossoms.

A doorway on a narrow street in Nafplio.

Ellen at the castle above Nafplio.

The ancient theater at Epidaurus is still used today. 

The Epidaurus Theater.

I'll finish up with a climbing shot--Ellen at Leonidio. Leonidio is mostly a winter area because most of the sectors face south, but there is some shady climbing. 

Logistics

Athens Airport to Athens: The airport is far outside of downtown Athens, but it's easy to take the metro. Follow the signs and purchase a "30-minute" ticket at the kiosk (9 euros, takes credit cards). A 40-minute ride took us to within walking distance of our apartment.

Athens: We stayed in the Kerameikos District which has lots of restaurants and places to stay and is within walking distance of the metro and the Acropolis. There are other popular districts close to the Acropolis. The Plaka area NE of the Acropolis is apparently nice but we didn't stay there. Our apartment was called Karamos Athens and was very comfortable. There are many lodging options.

Car Rental: We returned to the airport (metro) to rent a car and then drove to Nafplio via Corinth. The driving is easy on freeways the whole way (you don't have to drive through downtown Athens). Freeway tolls can be paid with a credit card or cash. Our rental car company (AutoUnion) turned out not to be at the airport proper (they shuttled us to their office). It would have been more convenient to have picked a rental car company that was actually at the airport, so pay attention to that if it matters to you.

Nafplio: Nafplio is touristy but enjoyable for a short visit. There are hundreds of places to stay there. We booked the Kallisti Pension which was very nice, centrally located, and served a huge breakfast every day (included). 

Leonidio: From Nafplio it was about a 2-hour drive to Leonidio, a smaller town on the coast to the southwest. Leonidio is another major Greek climbing destination (see Mountain Project or climbinleonidio.com) but we only spent a day there. There are 1,500+ routes on high quality limestone with steep tufa caves (e.g., Sector Mars). It's primarily a winter area since most cliffs face south but there are shady sectors.