Showing posts with label Nebraska. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nebraska. Show all posts

Tuesday, November 15, 2022

What Rhymes with Route 20?

 

School west of Lusk at dusk.
(Click images to view larger)

You can get your kicks on Route 66, and Route 50 traverses enough desert in Nevada to be called “The Loneliest Road in America,” but other major U.S. highways either don’t rhyme well or are more social. In the U.S., coast-to-coast highway numbers end in “0”, increasing from north to south, but there are exceptions. U.S. 10 originally extended only from Detroit to Seattle, but it was considered important enough to earn its number. Many older routes have been subsumed by interstate highways, but you can still follow long stretches where small towns and remnants of 1950s motor culture mingle with newer development. 

 

I spent a weekend photographing in Western Nebraska last January (2022) (see blog post), and a good deal of time last summer driving back and forth to the East Coast (blog post), avoiding freeways when I had enough time. Those trips piqued my interest, so Ed Sherline and I (see his excellent photography and Wind River rephotography project) headed to Western Nebraska for a weekend in early November. We made our way east along Hwy 20 from near Glendo, Wyoming into the Nebraska sandhills to Valentine before turning south and then east towards home on Hwy. 26, itself a major route extending from Nebraska to Oregon. 

 

Ed and I get out once or twice a year to shoot photos. It’s an opportunity to commiserate about politics, talk about trips we’ve done and trips we’d like to do, nerd-out about photography without boring our families, eat unhealthy food, and drink unhealthy drink. Even though we stop at the same places, we always come home with different images. The photographer David DuChemin made the point in a recent blog post that even though “it’s all been done,” each of us brings a unique point of view to our photographs, something to strive for.


Shawnee, Wyoming cafe, Hwy. 20.

Abandoned trailer west of Lusk, Wyoming.

Lost Bar, Lost Springs, Wyoming.

Playground, Lost Springs, Wyoming.

Garage, Harrison, Nebraska.

Abandoned house east of Harrison, Nebraska, beside Hwy. 20.

Sunflower along Hwy. 20, Western Nebraska.

Garage, Hwy. 20, Western Nebraska.

Truck detail, Hwy. 20, Western Nebraska.

Steering wheel, Hwy. 20, Western Nebraska.

Grain elevator, Hwy. 20, Nebraska.

Abandoned motel, Hwy. 26, Western Nebraska.

Old downtown, Henry, Nebraska.







Friday, September 2, 2022

Hollowed Out

Empty marquis. Granville, IL.

I drove twice this summer (2022) from Laramie to Tidewater Virginia where my parents retired over twenty years ago. My father died in 2019, but my mother clung to their home on the Chesapeake Bay as long as she could before reluctantly moving to Austin, Texas in July, closer to family but far from her Gloucester friends. 

I grew up in Northern Virginia, but after my first glimpses of the West, I was eager to leave. A family road trip in the mid-1970s took us through Wyoming, sealing my fate, and I moved to the Tetons soon after college. My father's parents loved the Tetons, visiting in the 1940s and spending time on Jenny Lake. Eisenhower's interstate highway project didn't begin until the 1950s, and for Easterners, trips "out West" were slower; small towns with their "classic" diners and gas stations interrupted two-lane highways devoid of fast food. 

After World War II, the Midwest thrived for a time (see Flora and Flora 2014) even as the seeds of its decline took root. Towns bypassed by the new interstate highways eventually faltered, corporate agriculture subsumed family farms, and opportunity lured young people to cities. 

I deliberately stayed off the interstates on my first drive east this summer, hoping to photograph small towns along the way ala Stephen Shore, but I was plagued from Colorado to Virginia by relentless rain. St. Louis was inundated soon after I passed through, and later in the summer thousand-year floods devastated Eastern Kentucky. I stopped to photograph when the rain slowed, but the trip left me wishing I had more time and better weather. 

I've heard the rural Midwest described as "hollowed out" but despite boarded-up storefronts and empty streets, stone and brick architecture transcends the crass and impermanent suburbs and strip malls that have replaced them. The country is divided and much grievance festers in this "flyover country," festooned with Trump banners and American flags, maybe because people struggle to find someone or something to blame for so much loss. 

Abandoned house. County Road 119, Colorado.

Abandoned building, highway 14, New Raymer, CO.

Window displays, New Raymer, CO.

John Deere and grain elevators, New Raymer, CO.

Interior, northwest Kansas.

Interior, northwest Kansas.

Easy chair, northwest Kansas.

Broom, northwest Kansas.

Kansas plains.

MacDonald, Kansas.

"God's Promise for the Future" (mural), Bradshaw, Nebraska.

Tilted building, Norcator, Kansas.

Abandoned farmhouse, Rt. 24 west of Clay Center, Kansas.

Troughs west of Clay Center, Kansas.

Farm interior west of Clay Center, Kansas.

Drilling equipment, Carmi, Illinois.

Empty church, Hwy. 168, Indiana.

Church interior, Hwy. 168, Indiana.

Fire hydrant, Hwy. 168, Indiana.

Cook's Marine, Georgetown, Indiana.

Dehart's Bible and Tire. Morehead, Kentucky.

Hinton Hardwoods, Hinton West Virginia.

Hinton, West Virginia.

Manequins, Rts. 3 and 12, West Virginia.

Vegetation, Blue Ridge Mountains.

Forks of Buffalo, Virginia.









 

Friday, February 4, 2022

Photographing the Nebraska Panhandle in Black and White

 

Grain storage in Crawford, Nebraska.
(Click on images to view larger)

In his book, Dirt Meridian, photographer Andrew Moore published a series of color photographs of the western Great Plains, many taken from a small plane flown low over the Nebraska Panhandle. His images capture stark landscapes, abandoned farms, and people who live and work there. 

 

I love this genre: documentary images of hardscrabble scenes. Moore’s website suggests that his projects “record the effect of time on the natural and built landscape,” but they transcend a mere record, blending documentation with a keen aesthetic eye

 

Color photography has always felt the most natural to me, but I also admire the black and white masters whose craft requires a less intuitive way of seeing, translating color to tone and managing complex tonal relationships. Recently, Gregg Waterman, himself a talented photographer, pointed me to the work of David Plowden, who spent over 50 years photographing landscapes like those featured in Dirt Meridian, but in B/W and from the ground rather than the air. His work documents the natural beauty of the Great Plains and Midwest but also the remains of farms and ranches abandoned in the American migration to cities. Plowden recognizes this change in a quote on his website:

 

I have been beset, with a sense of urgency, to record those parts of our heritage which seem to be receding as quickly as the view from the rear of a speeding train. I fear that we are eradicating the evidence of our past accomplishments so quickly that in time we may well lose the sense of who we are.” (Source)

 

Plowden studied under Minor White, a pioneer of meticulous B/W photography of subjects ranging from rural America to the male figure, and he rubbed elbows with Ansel Adams, Alfred Stieglitz, and Edward Weston. White’s influence is evident in his work, but Plowden’s photographic voice is his own. 

 

Inspired by Plowden’s photographs, I drove east from Laramie to the Nebraska Panhandle on a warmish late-January day, first to Sidney and then north to Chadron, stopping to explore along the way before turning towards home. It was fun but a little sad to be out photographing small towns and old farms. Many buildings were boarded up and downtowns mostly abandoned despite the nice weather. I enjoyed not-too-bad onion rings from a tiny store and basked in the warm sun, welcome after months of Wyoming wind and cold.

 

These photographs are my favorites from the trip, clumsily processed. B/W requires different skills than color photography, and I’ve always enjoyed the photographing more than the processing, but these scenes, especially in winter, lend themselves to monochrome. 


Jackson's Garage, Bridgeport, Nebraska.

Jackson's Garage detail.

Abandoned farm, Rt. 20 west of Crawford, Nebraska.

Jars and workbench, abandoned farm west of Crawford, Nebraska.

Ranch signs south of Dalton, Nebraska.

Trees and fields, Route 20 near Nebraska-Wyoming border.

Grain elevator near Bushnell, Nebraska.

Insulators east of Dix, Nebraska.

Building, Bridgeport, Nebraska.

Downtown Crawford, Nebraska.