Cliffs in one of the side canyons of the Lower Gila Box in New Mexico.
(Click images to view larger)
In 1983, the late M.H. Salmon and his dog, Rojo, hiked from the source of the Gila River in the Aldo Leopold Wilderness to where it emerges from the mountains near Gila, NM. There, he picked up his cat and canoed through three box canyons (the Upper, Middle, and Lower) in New Mexico and another (the Gila Box) in Arizona, ending his trip before the river succumbed to agricultural diversion on its way to join the Colorado near Yuma, Arizona. He called his animal companions “the crew” and sometimes left them alone by the river to forage while he wandered into nearby towns to socialize and lament the loss of an unnamed romantic partner. His book, Gila Descending, A Southwestern Journey, is a classic. Salmon was a lifelong advocate for the Gila River, and today a bill named for him and reintroduced by New Mexico Senators Martin Heinrich and Ben Ray Luhan could permanently protect over 400 miles of it.
Box canyons in southern New Mexico don’t dead end like the ones in old Westerns where, depending on who was doing the chasing, good or bad guys rode in but didn’t ride out. Instead, they are cliff-lined gorges where the river meanders from side to side making walking almost impossible. Side canyons provide access here and there, and boating is possible when the water is high, but the canyon interiors remain remote and seldom visited.
Miraculously, the Gila is one of the few substantial undammed rivers in the southwest (except for irrigation diversion), rising and falling with runoff and the seasons. Despite many attempts to dam it over the years, the river has remained free-flowing thanks to the efforts of conservation groups, New Mexico Senators, and devoted individuals like Salmon.
Today, the Lower Box of the Gila is a Wilderness Study Area (WSA), meaning that it has characteristics that make it eligible for Wilderness designation by Congress. WSAs are managed to preserve these qualities until Congress makes a decision.
Just before entering the Lower Box on his journey, Salmon wrote:
People rule the natural world today and everywhere you look we’ve made a hash of it. A rare gem like the pristine Gila only serves to balance otherwise zealous commercial interests. In juxtaposition, a free-flowing stream may be the most civilized item within our realm. More than birds can benefit from association with a wild river.
In southern New Mexico, winter is the time for desert exploring, and we made a half dozen or more trips to explore Lower Box and the surrounding area during our first cool season since moving to Silver City in 2023. I’m grateful to have such a diverse and archaeologically rich place so close to home.
On publication of the fourth edition of his book in 2006, Salmon ended a new introduction by urging us to keep up the good fight:
More than 20 years ago, Rojo, the tomcat, and I saw the whole 220 miles of river in one trip. I thought at the time: All said, there's not a better place anywhere in the West. In spite of boosters, boomers, politicians, and certain government agencies, that's still true today. The Gila River is the last flow in New Mexico that can still teach us what a natural river should be. Improbably, it still flows free. Enjoy it. Don't let them take it away.
Ellen in the Chihuahuan Desert preparing for a hike near the Lower Box.
The Lower Box Canyon in December with a few lingering yellow cottonwood trees.
Hiking in a side canyon last December with Larry Scritchfield and Jane Addis (2023).
Trees and cliffs deep inside the Lower Box.
A shockingly green rock layer in one of the side canyons of the Lower Box.
Ellen in a green slot canyon.
Ellen with T Rolloff in another side canyon.
The Lower Box has been used by humans for thousands of years. Bedrock mortars like these are common.
As are petroglyphs. These are near the mouth of one of the many side canyons.
Steve Buskirk exploring in the hills above the Box Canyon.
Ellen and her brother, Terry, in a side canyon. Oddly, we've had more visitors during the winter in Southern New Mexico than we ever did when we lived in Laramie.
Petroglyphs high above the river.
Bedrock mortars at a rock outcrop a few miles north of the Lower Box.
The Jaguar Panel.
Ocotillo and poppies near the rim of the Lower Box.
An ocotillo under a New Mexican sky near the rim of the Box. March 2024.
Ellen, Bay Roberts, and Beth Buskirk hiking towards the Lower Box, March 2024.
